The Chuanshan Islands, consisting of Shangchuan Island and Xiachuan Island, is the second largest archipelago in China, among which Shangchuan Island is the second largest island in Guangdong, with 12 seaside beaches with a total length of more than 30 kilometers, and is one of the "Hundred Scenes of Southern Guangdong" and an important node of the Chinese Maritime Silk Road.
The sea and the sky at the Sanzhou Pier, fishing boats moored in the shallows, clouds creating layers for the picture, and the ferry to the island slowly sailing into the picture. The ferry usually arrives at Sanzhou Pier at noon or in the afternoon, so you can go to Shadi Fishing Port in Shadi Town first to enjoy the "fishing port evening sunset" and stay overnight. Surrounded by mountains on three sides and facing the sea on one side, Shadi Fishing Port is a natural sheltered harbor with a water depth of 12 meters, which is suitable for large boats to enter and leave, and is one of the top five fishing ports in Guangdong Province. There are several streets in the fishing port town, with the knocking and banging of the guys in the fishing boat repair store and old posters on the walls. Fishing boats of all colors are moored in the fishing harbor, and small uptown boats carrying tourists come and go.
In the evening, the sun is blocked by the big mountain on the right side of the harbor, and you can see the sun sinking into the sea by walking along the path on the left side of the fishing harbor all the way to Maojiuzui and Wangfang Bay, a round trip of more than two hours. However, if you stand by the fence of the harbor or in front of the window of the hotel, you can enjoy the beauty of the "fishing harbor evening sunset". In the evening, at the restaurant in front of the ice bridge, you can enjoy a steamed grouper, a plate of mussels, and a pot of winter melon soup, which is simple and sincere. After the meal, you can sit in front of Jianshang Sugar Water Shop and have a cup of sour plum soup or herbal tea, and listen to Mr. Hu, the owner, talk about the past of the fishing port.
Open the window in the morning, the early fishing boats cloaked in the sunset, cut through the bright mirror-like sea. On my morning run through the streets of the town, I stopped by the food market and saw a fisherman picking up a quart of eight pounds of grayish-brown slate fish, the swim bladder of which has a very high protein content and is the best material for making gum, and is worth a lot of money if it is a wild "money slate". At Lin's snack store by the vegetable market, we ate meat and egg noodles, sesame meat wonton and mugwort mochi, and listened to the owner's secret of fishing village food. If more than one person travels together, charter a boat to go fishing at Shatti fishing port, go to the Mo Douzhou on the opposite side of the sea, or rent a car to go to the top of the mountain to see the big windmill, to visit the pirate Zhang Baozai sleeping cave at Qipan Mountain, overlooking Shatti fishing port.
There are three major beaches on Shangchuan Island, namely, the Flying Beach, the Golden Beach and the Silver Beach. The Golden Beach is the longest, but the Flying Beach is the only 4A scenic spot on the island that has been developed, and the beach, hotels, restaurants and other services are concentrated here. Flying beach is exquisite, known as "the first beach in the South China Sea", the sea bed slope gentle water quality of the country's first-class, step on the fine soft water sand run to ten meters away, mild seawater is only not waist. Flying beach "blue sea red sun" is the most fantastic landscape of Shangchuan Island.
It was after 5am, but many people on the flying beach were already waiting for sunrise. A red sun rose from the sea, immediately reflecting the clouds in the sky and the beach, layers of waves sparkling, the clouds of the sky reflected in the beach water, as if it was the mirror of the sky. At sunrise, the distant mountains, windmills, beaches and hotels were covered with sunset, like a city in the sky suspended in it. Walking along the 4800 meters of flying beach water, the beach under the waves, the texture as the air overlooking the desert, the small fish swimming like flying above the desert; children were looking for beautiful shells, walking on the beach full of ocean atmosphere, extraordinarily comfortable.
There is a little-known "Chao Ren Trail" at the bottom of the road. There are eight Chao Ren Trails on Shangchuan Island with a total length of 78 kilometers, and the most beautiful and shortest one is this Fei Sha Jiao Trail. After the Tianhou Palace, you can walk all the way to the pavilion to enjoy the waves and listen to the waves. At the end of the Fei Sha Beach on the Chiu Chow Trail, there are often local women catching the sea. Under the hot sun, women wearing long sleeves and pants hold wooden sticks, wearing hats with hoods around their faces, dragging large nets and walking in the sea, constantly dragging the sticks, often bending down to fish for sand and white, soaking in the sea for several hours a day, is a hard labor. Colorful coat, the waves splashing, turban flying, in the eyes of tourists, is a wonderful picture of catching the sea.
At the end of the flying beach, there is a small island called "Bao Duck Island" on the opposite side of the sea, and the beach is exposed to the sea at low tide, so you can walk across. The island has a lighthouse and a six-meter-high granite statue of the Goddess of the Treasure Duck, the goddess with her hands stretched out flat, each palm holding a duckling. Legend has it that the heavenly world to guard the Heavenly River Sharon escaped to the sea, for the land and often fought with the South Sea Dragon King, Zhang Tian Shi used the three treasures given by the Bodhisattva Guanyin to subdue Sharon. The first magic treasure jasper hairpin to subdue Sharon, Sharon turned into a dragon-shaped island - Shangchuan Island, the second magic treasure three gold leaves to calm Sharon, gold leaves into a gold beach, flying beach and silver beach, the third magic treasure is the goddess in the hands of two treasure duck, blessing Shangchuan Island calm. Walking in the tide people trail to the highest point to know the magic of the legend, overlooking the flying beach, the treasure duck island like a treasure bottle, the flying beach into the bottle.
At the top of the Tide Trail is a quiet pavilion to listen to the waves, except for the sound of wind and waves, only the sound of insects, where people can easily enter the realm of no-self. The water is clear and the sand is young. 500,000 square meters of rare bamboo forests grow nearby, and groups of macaques often play here, making it a provincial macaque reserve.
It takes ten minutes by car from Sanzhou Port Pier to Taishan Silk Road Museum, Da Zhou Bay Ruins and St. Francis of Assisi Cemetery. On the beach of Da Zhou Bay, there were countless pieces of broken porcelain scattered around, and back then, you could pick up red and green porcelain, blue and white glazed porcelain, etc. You could even pick up porcelain bowls, plates and small mouth jars, so it was called "Flower Bowl Ping". These ancient porcelain pieces, including "Da Ming Nianzuo", "Zhengde Nianzuo" and other models of the year, and even found Jingdezhen custom-made, with the Portuguese emblem of blue and white porcelain, archaeological confirmation of Dazhouwan is the mid-Ming Dynasty Sino-Portuguese merchants smuggling porcelain trading sites.
Passing through the plaque of the cemetery of St. Francis Xavier, you will enter the 460-year-old cemetery, in which there is a Spanish Gothic cemetery. The platform in front of the cemetery is a good place for viewing, but unfortunately it is not open to the public. Francis Xavier de Sárbenzo was a Spanish Basque magnate who arrived at Kamikawa Island in September 1552 and lived in a thatched hut made of branches and thatch, waiting for an opportunity to enter Guangzhou to the Chinese mainland. The cemetery of St. Francis of Assisi and the ruins of Da Zhou Bay were also selected as a World Heritage Site on the "Maritime Silk Road" heritage list.
When night falls, there are always crowds of people at the big stalls on the flying beach, the paths along the beach are filled with stalls selling shells and dried seafood, and couples on tandem bicycles weave in and out of the crowd, adding a romantic atmosphere to the noisy bazaar. The beach bar on the beach was lit up with neon lights, and groups of people gathered at small tables along the beach, blowing the sea breeze and drinking beer. Some people light fireworks sticks and draw circles or English letters, and the light turns into romantic trails. Under the moonlight, the white waves on the beach were faintly visible, and couples were holding hands, treading the waves in the sea under the sky of stars.
Travel tip: Drive to Shanzui Port Pier in Taishan City, Guangdong, there is a parking lot at the pier and the parking fee is 30 RMB a day. There are direct buses from Guangdong Bus Station (Guangzhou), Zhuhai Gongbei, Yangjiang and Taishan Bus Terminal to Shanzui Port Pier. Self-driving cars can get to the island via ferry. The ferry ride to Sanzhou Port Pier on Shangchuan Island takes about 30 minutes. There is a scenic bus from Sanzhou Port Pier to Feisha Beach Scenic Area and Shadi Town. There is a daily ferry from Kamikawa Island to Shimokawa Island, and a ferry from Shimokawa Island to Kamikawa Island. St. Francis Xavier's Cemetery is closed to the public.
Parts of this travelogue are taken from my newly published book "No Work, Go to the Island: Blue Love Songs of Guangdong, Hong Kong and Macau Bay Area". The publication of this travelogue graphic in anyone's name (including and not limited to screenshots, screencasts, conversion to video, etc.) is prohibited without my and the publisher's consent.