The day in Beijing can be considered cool down.
The aftershocks of the last wave of the epidemic are gradually disappearing from the six districts of the city, and one cannot always be bored at home, it is time to go out and have a look around.
Do not go far, find a hutong stroll, old trees and small houses can shade, bite a popsicle, open a bottle of Arctic Ocean, listen to the old time Wang Xie Tang gossip, find a little popularity, than shopping malls interesting.
© Tupelo Creative
Especially with so many hutongs in Beijing, it sounds very tempting.
Are the fried beans at Fried Bean Hutong good? Will all the streets in Mutton Hutong be filled with shabu-shabu? I've made up a picture of the style.
Beijingers have always been simple and direct in naming places, saying what they have. The ancient capital for a thousand years, there is no shortage of literati and scholars, but the right to name places, the people are the biggest. I know there is Miao Ying Temple, but people still call it White Pagoda Temple, the common name is always good.
This includes naming the hutongs after their food - they put all the city's favorite bites on a map, telling you that when you come to Beijing, you can't go without these meals.
First, the well-deserved number one is lamb -
In Beijing, there were five mutton hutongs with the same name.
In terms of Beijingers' obsession with sheep, it makes sense that they eat whatever grows on them, except wool -
The upper brain meat sliced, roasted on the sizzling oil, hind legs shabu shabu pot, peach red and plum white brilliant as clouds, ribs waist nest do roast lamb, scorpion hot pot to eat the beauty to stretch noodles, burst tripe crisp and tender as fresh cucumber, lamb tail refining oil fried sesame tofu, lamb bones boiling soup boiled noodles brine, lamb head meat cut to fly thin to send wine, that sells lamb head meat vendors, even the horns of the lamb to hollow, full of unique taste pepper salt!
Neither one is bad. With such a large demand and so many processes, without a few lamb hutongs, we really can't afford to feed Beijingers so much.
One of the most famous ones is the mutton hutong near Fuchengmen - in Mr. Lao She's time, the area around Xisi Pailou would have had a lot of business with big knives slaughtering live sheep. Later, however, the landmarks belonging to it have been the Geological Auditorium, later the Gem Company and the Xisi baozi store.
Near Dongdan, there was also a mutton hutong, which later changed its name to Yangyi Hutong and was also known for its food.
However, its true identity is that it is the first stop for Japanese cuisine to come to Beijing!
This is not the old Yangyi Hutong, which used to run east-west.
© Beijing People's Voice
In the 1920s, the area became one of the most popular places for Japanese food in Beijing, and there was a "flag pavilion" that served both food and lodging functions, called Changchunting, which was considered the highest standard Japanese food at that time.
Before the war, there were many Japanese in the vicinity of Dongdan Pailou and Chongwenmen, and the concentration of Japanese food in this vicinity was no less than that in the Tidian Street of Liangmaqiao today - Hu Shi's first Japanese food was eaten with Ryunosuke Akutagawa in Beijing.
Until after the liberation, Japanese food in Beijing survived until the Cultural Revolution, and in 1983, the "Cut Cooking - Baiyun" in the Friendship Hotel renewed the stubble.
© Lv Xinzhang et al.
There is probably only one mutton hutong that still sells mutton today. This one is better than how many, the real thing, like a fake -
In the Ming Dynasty, it was also called Mutton Hutong, but later changed its name to Raw Meat Hutong, opposite to which there was also a cooked meat hutong. They are today's Shou Liu Hutong and Input Hutong, both in the meat-eater's paradise of Niu Street!
Hong Ji snack store, carry a pocket of loose meat and toothpick meat, don't forget to wait a little longer for the beef and onion buns to come out of the pot, a bite of fragrant; next door, Nian Ji cooked food, buy soy sauce beef and ask the boss for some original soup to cook noodles; dislike the shabu shabu pork row captain of Jubao Yuan, even the customer Xuan into; Dashuntang is the neighborhood recognized for decades of halal stir-fry, Tulufan is the first Xinjiang restaurant in Beijing ...... this is only cooked, next to the beef and mutton market, want to shabu shabu want to grill, what is not wow?
Even if this is the only "mutton hutong" in Beijing, that is enough to enjoy.
© Popular review：Little buns of paper love fish
The other thing Beijingers love besides mutton is sauce - Yonghegong has a sauce house east sandwich and a sauce house west sandwich, while jar tile city has a big sauce house hutong and a small sauce house hutong.
Not only do they truly love sauce, but they elevate it to an exalted status: the
All called "sauce XX", the main character is definitely not the back of the main ingredient, but must be the sauce.
When you eat soy sauce beef in Beijing, it must be the real "soy" beef, the soft cooked meat must have small grains of soy beans in it, not just a stew with soy sauce, clear sauce and yellow sauce, that treatment is different.
Another example is the Tianfu No. sauce elbow, the meat skin purple black purple black shiny, stewed rotten, but there is no big material taste, not even too salty (full brother mouth heavy), is the fragrance of the sauce, the original taste of meat.
© Tianfu Official Weibo
And then there is the sauce, sauce hutong used to make sauce -
Don't look at today's salted vegetables, but in Beijing, pickled vegetables are of a higher grade than salted vegetables alone. The Qing Palace imperial cuisine without pickles, but the sauce is a lot of dishes, sauce king melon sauce radish sauce eggplant sauce ganache, but also take carrots, peas, cucumbers and hazelnuts with lean pork dices and yellow sauce fried with meals, alias called the Palace "four sauces.
© The Collection of Famous Chinese Dishes
In addition to lamb and sauce, Beijing's hutong names are indispensable for anything with food in it.
For example, Duofu Lane was originally called Tofu Lane, and there was also a Tofu Pond Hutong north of the Bell Tower. Beijingers love tofu, listen to the oriole hall has a product of tofu, Jinan hall, halal hall selling pot collapse tofu, drink and send congee with small onion mixed with tofu, tofu mixed with tofu, snacks have marinated fried tofu, Wang Zhihe stinky tofu, dripping sesame oil with scallions smeared fried nest pieces, the world unique taste.
© The Culture of Food in China
It is worth mentioning that the simplest, which can still be eaten today, but rarely heard of, is called chicken shaved tofu: in fact, it is extremely tender southern tofu buckled in the plate, add salt drops of sesame oil sprinkled with a handful of green onions, eat while mixing, tofu broken, and chicken claws shaved similar.
Today, when I went to Bao Rui Men Nail Meat Cake or Hua Wei Meat Cake, I asked for a plate of small scallion and tofu, and this is what came up.
© Popular review: ordinary_world_1953
There is also the North Guanchang Hutong, which used to be called the sausage hutong, the exclusive one hutong net selling fried sausage, you think how many people love to eat. The Shaojiu Hutong to the south of it, formerly known as the wine hutong, there has been the Ming Dynasty Guanglu Temple passed down the wine shop, fried sausages to drink, also very good.
Dongjiaominxiang Alley, in the past, was Dongjiang Rice Alley, specializing in the sale of river rice, small dates cut cake dumplings rice cakes Ai Wo Wo Donkey Roll, without it can not.
© Manma's Kitchen
Youguo Hutong near Zhao Dengyu Road no longer exists, it used to be called Fried Ghost Hutong. Beijing's fried ghosts are not only doughnuts, but also deep-fried sesame seeds, sweet oil ghosts, etc. Maybe fried oil cakes are also counted. People all over the city eat this, and it can be served with bean curd brain, noodle tea, soybean milk, soybean juice, soybean porridge and bean foam soup, but the fried cake is the most ironic partner.
▲Changying Kaiyizhai is still rich in fried food, but most of the former "oil ghosts" of the old capital are gone.
Some hutongs are also known for their food, but that food disappears or is rare, and the area loses its original function. Like fried rice hutong, fried noodle hutong -
Fried rice is today mostly found in Mongolian restaurants, served alongside large pots of milk tea and small bowls of yogurt, and is no longer such an everyday food. Fried noodles, if not for the popularity of the last two years, some children do not know that the anti-American aid "a bite of fried noodles a snow" to eat this, but also as Shanghai fried noodles, fried Yifu noodles. It has long faded out of people's lives, Hutong naturally no longer see the production and sale of this.
Every hutong name that has ever had a fragrance is a trace of how Beijingers once lived in this way. In a time when there were no reviews, no Netflix, and even no Internet, this is a food map that the people of this area have woven for the world.
Today, the meaning of the food map of Beijing's hutong names has changed with the city long ago.
The square brick factory hutong has become synonymous with fried noodles again, everyone knows how to go to Daxing Hutong for noodle tea, and the door frame hutong, which did not sell lo mein in the past, is now at your disposal.
▲Noodle Tea in Daxing Hutong
The only thing that hasn't changed is that the people in this city are still chasing the bloodline of food that flows in every hutong.
Flowing water does not compete for first, it competes for heaving. Such a Beijing would not be without good food.
Some of the pictures in this article are from the Internet
Reference.
[1] Wu, Yun-Yun. A preliminary exploration of restaurants in early Republican Beijing (1912-1927) [D]. Zhejiang University of Commerce and Industry,2019.5.
[2] Sun Xiaoyan. Japanese food is hot in Beijing[J]. China Foreign Service,1996(04):6-10.
[3] Wang, Yuebo. Yueyue eat Yueyue happy [OL]. Cloud listening app, 2020-2021.
[4] Liang Shiqiu. Burnt cake and doughnut [M]. Yashia Xiaoshu (first and second), Tianjin, Tianjin Education Press, 2006.6.
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Author - VJ
Editor - VJ
Photography - Foto Editorial
Design - Full Director
