Travel

The back of a thousand-year-old town

The back of a thousand-year-old town

In the autumn rain of 2005, I held hands with the ancient town of Peeled Away for ten years, such as a plain cheongsam standing riverside beauty girl forever fixed in my mind, sunk in the smoke and water. Although I left the Strip Away a year ago, standing in the past and nostalgic river reminiscence, feelings splashed in the heart of the original. The pen records some memories, remembering that a scene in the past is irreplaceable once, are the strings of the piano, warming up every page of my life in Strip Away.

I. Clubhouse

The back of a thousand-year-old townThe back of a thousand-year-old townThe back of a thousand-year-old town

The Guiai Hall is a beautiful collection of memories in my life. The ancient town of Yankai, known as "Yunnan and Guangdong Guanjin", is unique in terms of land and water transportation, and has been a place where Guangdong merchants, Jin merchants,  Hui merchants gather, and where there are many passenger and cargo stalls, salt, silk, production equipment, daily necessities, medicinal materials, as well as horses, cattle, sheep, leather, copper, tin, tobacco, tobacco, tea, tung The bulk of commodities such as salt, silk, production appliances, daily necessities, medicinal materials, as well as horses, cattle, sheep, hides, copper, tin, tobacco, tobacco, tea, tung oil, star anise, panax ginseng, seven vinegars, spices, Zhuang brocade, etc. are thus collected and dispersed in Gui, Guangdong, Yunnan, Qian and northern Vietnam. Back then, some long-term away from home to strip the business of foreigners, a long time walking in other places, a long time will develop a hard to give up homesickness, so the idea of building a place "to enjoy the love of relatives, comfort the good friends, to promote the friendship of relatives, to take the joy of mulberry, although the foreign country is like a hometown" to enjoy the feelings of homesickness will The idea of "a place to enjoy the homesickness of the hometown" came into being. So the Guangdong East Hall, Guangdong West Hall, Jiangxi Hall, Shanxi Hall, Xiaoxiang Hall and other small-scale ancient hall building group should be the momentum of the rise, become far from the hometown of the wanderers to look at the hometown of the South Tower. The guildhouses are built in a staggered manner according to the mountainous terrain. The first stage is the Jiangxi Guild Hall and the Yuexi Guild Hall; the second stage is the spacious theater; and the third stage is the Guangdong East Guild Hall. Every detail of the hall complex is filled with a strong feeling of homesickness and an inexhaustible rhythm of cultural intermingling. It also gushes "the establishment of the guild hall, so the association of the hometown, the friendship is also, within the four seas, with the righteousness of each other, are all brothers". And the new feelings of foreign country "the same country borrowed to come to the museum, to unite the friendship of the countryside, to narrate the feelings of the countryside, smoothly swept away, and to be sympathetic to each other". There are more than a dozen inscriptions in the pavilion, in addition to recording the land acquisition, construction and restoration of the Hall, there are also the number of silver expenditures for the construction of the Hall and the number of donations from individuals and businesses, just like the current "financial public board". Also like the current "Forbes", the top 500, ranking the rich merchants, the top of the basic is the Guangdong, Jin merchants, Guangdong, Jin merchants of wealth is not false. Hundreds of years ago, the merchants in robes and coats were sitting here calmly dispatching the merchant ships coming and going from north to south on the river, carefully calculating the profit and loss of the sale. The guild hall show off the financial strength of the extraordinary, it is evident that the merchants are adept at management, a glimpse and see the Guangdong merchants, Hui merchants, Jin merchants sound business organization of the body, a detailed taste of those rigorous number of rules management, really amazing! Business culture and spirit through the hall this tangible thing and the intangible righteousness exist and pass on to stay. Guild Hall is such a spiritual carrier.

Another important function of the Hall is to deliberate and talk business. Every year, an annual meeting is held to agree on the market, formulate rules and regulations, mediate disputes, and sometimes organize barriers against the harshness and pressure of foreign capital. The remote frontier can not stop the vast merchant fleet of Jin merchants, and the tortuous and dangerous beaches can not disperse the Guangdong merchants across the sea. In the old days, when merchants traveled for thousands of miles, they often had to endure not only the test of nature, but also often encountered man-made plunder. Behind the considerable accumulation of wealth was the high price of parting with one's wife, leaving one's hometown and even one's life. Blood and tears and guts paved a tide of people rolling land and water business road.

During the time I was working in the town of Peoyai, the dormitory where I lived was opposite the theater of the Guild Hall. The theater building has long since collapsed, leaving behind only a three-foot platform paved with square bricks made of green stone. Standing on the remaining stage, I could hear the sound of the old opera and the accompanying gongs and drums. Imagine the hustle and bustle of the Guild Hall. The shrewd businessmen have long known the business way of "culture sets the stage, economy sings the show". In between the blowing, playing and singing, a good image of fun with the people was established. Nowadays, when I stand in front of these halls, which have read through the years and witnessed the vicissitudes of the world, I contemplate the sailing path of the Guangdong merchants and the Jin merchants across the sea. Can't help but inexplicably for this far away song and dance sad, but also for this this land's profound and once brilliant and comfort. As a businessman to liaise with the township, communication, meeting and deliberations, worship of the gods of the Hall, once showcased the Guangdong merchants, Jin merchants through the world's atmosphere, once witnessed the peeling of the glory and glory. Nowadays, the building is empty and things have changed, leaving only the history and culture to show to future generations. It was an important symbol of the prosperity of trade in the Ming and Qing Dynasties, and it was also a paradise for the people's life at that time, and her former glory still remains in the hearts of the people of Strip Away. The old Yai has become history, but the new life that grows from its roots not only follows the historical lineage of its past, but also contains more vitality to flourish and thrive.

Two, the pier

The back of a thousand-year-old townThe back of a thousand-year-old town

The commercial port of Peoyai developed in the Song Dynasty, matured in the Yuan Dynasty, and flourished in the Ming and Qing Dynasties. The hall and wharf are the landmarks of the old Mouyai, which is the node of long history and culture, and is the physical evidence to witness the rise and fall of the ancient town. Strip Away is named after the natural crossing at the intersection of the Na Ma River and the Packer River, which is shaped like a "bend in the cow". Is the tea horse ancient road and Yongzhou ancient road connection point, is the copper out of Yunnan, Guangdong salt into the node of Yunnan; is the golden waterway of Yunnan through the river to the sea. The pier has become a big springboard for the golden channel. Because of the large drop in the river water level during the flood season, the six public piers in Strip Away are slope type step piers. In fact, the river Linjiang Road, Heping Lane households pillowed the river as far as possible, every home on the water, every home through the boat, large businesses have private docks. The street surface of the dock is three to four meters wide, and the two sides are closely connected to the stores and houses connected together, the front store and the back of the house, the stores are connected, only to the river port to have a vacancy. Whenever you walk up from the riverside pier through the long and narrow ancient lanes, your footsteps make a crisp sound on the green stone slabs, and old houses of the Ming and Qing dynasties flash by, you are infected and shocked by the powerful cultural force. The most representative wharf in Peoyai is the Grand Wharf, repaired in the 12th year of Daoguang (1832), more than 40 meters long and about four meters wide, with eight sections and 77 steps, with a typical green-brick Cantonese pagoda, with a concave plaque at the door, reading: Grand Wharf, and a flying bat sculpted above the plaque with a ring in its mouth reading "Boai", meaning. Blessing from heaven. On the back of the pier, there is an inscription "Yunnan and Guangdong Guanjin", and the streets connected to the pier are "Apple Step Kangqu", "Pugang Blessed Land", "Wangjiang Lou The streets connected to the wharf are marked with plaques such as "Apple Step Kangqu", "Pugang Blessed Land", "Wangjiang House", "Listen to Tao Pavilion", "Deshengchang Trading Company", "Ruyiju Inn" and other old names such as Government Salt, Cloth House, and Two Canton Trading Company. The courtyard, lintel and walls of the old houses can be seen above the ink treasures of celebrities and scholars, and a strong smell of books and scrolls comes to you when you walk there, as if you can hear the crowd of people and merchants yelling and soliciting at sunset. Make you feel the rhythm of the historical pulse beating. With the current real estate developers move to the "Supreme", "luxury" naming is the two extremes of comparison and very different effects.

The name "Strip Away" is the name of the boat boss to support out, is the horse gang pack out. The horse pot head and the boat boss pack the gold and silver pack the risk pack the pride, pack the dialect and customs of Kyushu, pack the great fluidity of the economic bloodline from the south to the north. You can imagine what it was like when thousands of mules and horses appeared in this town. It is a major access road where multiple currents collide, clamor, and roll into huge waves. The people of Yuyai can touch the pulse of the times at the dock in front of their homes. After tea and dinner, many old people are happy to count the most of Wensan in the Strip Away: the earliest cigarette factory, the earliest power plant, the earliest township telegraph office, the earliest women's school, the earliest female Communist Party. ...... This place not only accommodates merchants, horse potheads and cigarette smokers, but also emperors, commoners and revolutionaries. In 1652 AD, Emperor Yongli of Ming Dynasty Zhu Yuhuang and his civil and military officials and servants set foot in Funing from here and were treated generously by the Zhuang people; Li Liejun, the famous general of the Protectorate Army, kicked off the battle of the Protectorate Army out of Yunnan and into Guizhou and Guangdong from here; the soldiers of the Red Seventh and Eighth Armies fought in the north and south from here and went to the front line of the anti-Japanese resistance; Chen Gung led the Liberation Army to Yunnan from here and attacked Mengzi Airport at night to liberate Yunnan; the ancestors of Peikai came from here and ran along the Right River from here. From here, the ancestors went down the Right River and traveled in all directions to realize their ambition of making the goods available to the world and the four seas a brotherhood. It is hard to say everything about the scenery and history of this place. Only the silent stone slabs by the river are left behind, recording the long past.

Three, Guanyin Temple

The back of a thousand-year-old townThe back of a thousand-year-old town

The once developed trade, the once prosperous place where merchants gathered, left numerous monuments to the ancient town: meeting houses, temples, pavilions, Ming and Qing buildings, and they stayed intact after the prosperity passed away, making Peikai an ancient town with green bricks, tiles and white walls. These are like pearls hidden deep in the ages, and you can feel the eye-catching brilliance as soon as you approach.

Guanyin Temple is located in the mountainside of Pugang, standing proudly for thousands of years of wind and rain, looking down on the masses of life. Standing in front of the temple, under the blue sky, white clouds and sunset. Across the river, Donglou Village and Long Nha Village are covered in green bamboo forests and lentil trees. Fishing boats come and go on the river. At this time, the town is elegant, spiritual and beautiful, and the scenery is natural, just like a landscape painting and a frozen poem. The masterpiece of nature has made her beauty and aura. This is the scenic spot recorded in the history books: "Nanxi Picture Boat". The "Guangnan Province" records: "Nanxi painting boat is also known as Pugang painting boat. Peeled off the pass is also known as Pugang, hundreds of levels high, on the top of the cui bun cage clouds, under the clear stream to send the boat. Yangcheng Jaguar trade in this, cargo boats in a continuous flow upstream, dusk began to rest, the sound of sails, fishermen's songs to answer each other, is no different from the southeast of the prosperous area, is to explore the scenic beauty of the selection". The Qing poet Wen Ruchun assigned "Nanxi picture boat": "Nanxi a water as blue as oil, overlooking the railing leisurely look at the small boat swim. Take off your shoes and hold the blue bird boat in the morning, and put in your pennies at night on the white apple island. People compete to sleep and eat according to the geese and wastes, and customers borrow fish and shrimps for food and shame, three or five even boom lights, fishing songs and wild tunes up the bow." It can be seen that the scene of merchants gathering and merchant ships on the verge of berthing. "The world's beautiful scenery monks accounted for more", the core concept of temple construction is the unity of heaven and man, the overall design of feng shui, that is, the temple according to the mountains and forests and open and majestic, set of mountain and river aura. Guanyin Temple is no exception, such a beautiful scenery for the soul to baptize people will certainly forget the worries of the world and the hustle and bustle, the heart will only be moved, is sacred. According to the records, the original temple hall is written with the couplet of "Eight-sided auspicious light shining Boai, double stream cloud shadow huan Pu Gang". The temple Guanyin was sculpted by skilled craftsmen invited from Guangdong, but unfortunately it was destroyed in the 1960s, and what we see now is already a gold body re-sculpted. Whether man has created God, or God is dominating man, people ultimately need faith. The temple unites the ancient town people's faith and worship of the gods. Here piety emanates the kindest light of humanity, and the significance of religion makes it full of a holy aura that seems to hold a spiritual dialogue with the devout viewer. A pure land of the soul for the earthly devotees. How many mortals and dignitaries have been silently blessed in this temple for spiritual pilgrims, and have been immortalized in the compassionate gaze of Guanyin and the frank laughter of Maitreya. In fact, the annual Longtan event and temple fair held here are the Zhuang Opera exhibition and agricultural products bazaar trading in the square in front of the temple. Believers bow three times here and pray to Guanyin to drive away epidemics and bring down blessings, eliminate disasters and pray for prosperous business and the well-being of loved ones. This is another social function of the temple, which is to promote the great spirit of Buddhism of compassionate care for all beings, selflessly and selflessly helping the common people in order to promote social harmony and peace in life. Today, the Guanyin Temple, which has witnessed the alternating world of prosperity and despair, and the tossing and turning cycle of purple and red dust, still towers by the big pier after relocation.

Four, Linjiang Road

The back of a thousand-year-old townThe back of a thousand-year-old townThe back of a thousand-year-old town

After the opening of the commercial port in the Song Dynasty, the ancient town has unfolded a beautiful history like a poetic scroll. Time has passed, and the town, which has been infiltrated by more than 1,000 years of history, is dyed with the patina of the times and the glory of ancient silver. Only into the Linjiang Road, through the streets and alleys, close examination of the vicissitudes of this ancient town, close to his skin, touch his pulse, touch the traces of the years, taste the heart thumping feeling. Only then do you count to enter the peeling pass. How many famous writers with dynamic words outline the landscape scroll, to glowing pictures about the town's style, the painter here is a very good work of the style of the collection of the brush. In the continuous flow of time, in the deep courtyard of the ruined walls, condensed is the town's character of a thousand years. The old town has long been lost in the depths of the dust of history, only the enduring human story of the long-lasting rhyme, so that the hearts of the infinite sorrow. Qing Guangnan governor poem: "See said Nanxi scenery is the most secluded, every family are building a lookout tower." Thousands of years of historical precipitation, the generation of a deep cultural heritage, materialized into a splendid human landscape. Wandering in the east-west Linjiang Road, a street of ancient style and charm immediately came to the surface, the street is lined with wooden structure through the tiled houses, so that people feel into a dizzying time and space tunnel. The balcony of the hammock style, the river, the street face smoky fire like, giving people a sense of endless vicissitudes. Let people look back to the Ming and Qing dynasties hundreds of years ago. Ancient river pebbles, green stone paving the street and the old houses reflect each other, inadvertently flowing out of a strong sense of ancient charm. Sitting quietly in the riverside hammock, push open the carved wooden windows facing the river to listen to the flow of the river and watch the flowers and trees swaying. Sipping tea and thinking through a curtain of exquisite small windows. It is a kind of spiritual baptism that cleanses the mind and spirit. Underneath the feet is the river, the breeze, the smell of the wet, the sound of water, oars eh nai, as calm as a thousand years of ancient towns, listening to the river's clear waves lapping at the shore, watching the sunset on the other side of the mountain cut. This life how its fate to be able to let the most beautiful things were encountered by their own. Yes! I was fortunate to smell a smell of Jin merchants from the distant past with the fragrance of rice vinegar, and witnessed an oasis of Song Dynasty that was about to be obliterated by the dust of history and modern industrial civilization. The pace here is soothing and pleasant, and people can chat in front of their old houses that have been inhabited for many generations and many years. In the evening, the old people sitting on the smooth stone piers at the entrance lazily shaking the bamboo fan is brewing thoughts, or memories of the old days? The old town does not belong to the present, it belongs to the past, belongs to the history, belongs to the peeling of the old people to themselves, to the past, to the deposition of thousands of years of emotional nucleus in the chest of fondness.

Five, pagoda

The back of a thousand-year-old townThe back of a thousand-year-old town

The Dragon Bridge and the beautifully carved pagoda by the six piers have long since collapsed, leaving behind only a few silent inscriptions, ancient trees entwined with vines and a deep, bottomless pool called "Hongpaifang". The water is quiet, the love is quiet, the poetic Na Ma River crossing, the poignant love story. The waterfowl are singing their crisp songs, and the soft, clean and quiet colorful river bank. I do not know how many infatuated women behind this pagoda's vehemence. How many beautiful women have jumped to the deep pool under the pagoda in order to escape from the red world and perished. The pagoda is the place where feelings are most fermented. The ancient road, the majestic pass, the heroes and the beauties constitute a far-reaching mood of classical beauty. A street of beauty, a town full of beautiful women. Why are there so many beautiful women in Peikai in history? One is the climatic conditions. The bottom of the altitude is in the weakest ultraviolet intensity, the skin is generally fair and tender; second is the habits of living. Strip Aye territory has packaged Nyang River, Gu La River, Na Ma River three major water systems, the local people living near the water, because of good water quality, air humidity, like a sauna every day; third is the reason for genetic blood. Strip Away in the Song, Ming and Qing dynasties is a migrant town, residents are far from each other's blood, the offspring is therefore smart and beautiful. The beauty of the ancient town is not powdered, the natural ice skin, always with smoke and blue, the rich body always ebullient. Ancient town of love should also be simple and intoxicating, like the year of Bai Suzhen and Xu Xian's encounter, the smoke and rain in the waves of unrest but love moving heaven. How many women's happy or sad fate is staged here, the deep pool under the pagoda has left how many people's dreams? In that horse river and pack niang river confluence of the riverside how many beautiful silhouette can sing the soul in this river was bred, melted, and finally passed away!

The glory of all life, the rise and fall of the generations but like grass, could not be more natural. How many beautiful women have sung here, and how many poems have been written here? How many trolls and inkmen are here to chant the wind and the moon? There must be a lot of talented girls in the rivers meet the boat in the waters under my feet, singing and dancing, knitting their brows and thinking about it? The people have already gone, only the quiet water of the Paniang River is empty, only the silent flow of the Nama River witnessed the record!

Sixth, the pack mother river

The back of a thousand-year-old townThe back of a thousand-year-old townThe back of a thousand-year-old town

Every river is a divine stroke of the Creator. Every river is the bloodline of an ancient civilization.

The most prosperous period of the city was when the water veins were at their peak. The 1,400-kilometer-long deep-water channel from the Packer River to the mouth of the Pearl River has formed a huge economic belt, and the Baixai, Nanning, Guigang, Guiping, Wuzhou, Zhaoqing and Guangzhou have become important commercial ports. The river has made the river and the sea accessible to the peeling of the river and the richness of southern Yunnan. The river makes the ancient town full of vitality and becomes a paradise for entrepreneurs. The centuries have changed and the years have turned. Since the development of the western part of the country, the ancient town of Mouai has been flourishing. Modern and ancient civilization dovetail here, and the mountains and the sea are held together here. The red earth plateau that has been sleeping for a thousand years suddenly dovetails with the world civilization, and the ancient and modern civilizations meet here. In the connection and collision of history and reality, the development of modern civilization is always based on the inheritance and integration of ancient civilization. The development of modern civilization is always based on the inheritance and fusion of ancient civilization, and it glows with the brilliance of the times. The civilization created by history has faded away, leaving behind docks and salt roads that have lost their former functions. The new generation of young people is unfamiliar with the salt culture of that period, and the prosperity of the old town can only remain in the memories of the old people, or recorded in the history books. Today, with the rapid development of science and technology, in fact, the biggest problem plaguing water conservancy projects is not technology, but immigration. Immigration is a common problem that plagues water conservancy projects. Standing proudly on the right river dam, the physical composition of the indestructible reinforced concrete, the spiritual cornerstone is the selfless dedication of hundreds of thousands of immigrants along the Packer River. History, such as the Pack Niang River east to the turbulent never return, constantly washing away the dust of the years; history, such as the Yingpan Mountain standing tall, recording the changes in the ancient town, witnessed the strategic choice for the country to contribute to the development of prosperity in the west of the Strip Away people.

Photo: Liu Bingshan, Huang Zhibiao, Huang Binghui